September 2008

Anuva Brings Its Wines to New York

For all you fans out there here is a blurb that might get you excited. Please feel free to send it to everyone you know-Lindsay Olson of Paradigm Staffing did (For all your PR and marketing needs… Lindsay rocks!):

Dear Friends,

Daniel and his Argentine fiancée Lourdes recently started an exclusive wine club called Anuva that sources limited production wines from Argentina for its members. They will be doing private wine tastings to launch the club in select US cities on the following dates:

  • New York City: October 27-November 9
  • Los Angeles: November 9-November 27
  • Portland, OR: November 27-January 6, 2009

Tastings will be led by Daniel and will be for groups of 6-10 people, 12 max. Each group tasting costs $175 total (not per person) and includes:

  • 6 different wines guaranteed to please. All limited production and exclusive.
  • The glassware
  • Set-up/clean-up
  • The witty banter (he does a very good presentation I would say)

A host would need to invite the people, provide the space, and could contribute optional food items. Daniel will consult for this upon request (without charge of course).Larger groups can be accommodated, but please contact Daniel to discuss the particulars or if you have any questions:

Contact:

Daniel Karlin
Founder, Anuva Vinos
email: daniel@anuvavinos.com
phone: 310-601-8279 (U.S. landline in Buenos Aires)

Thanks!

d.

And thank you all for sharing!

Anuva Event

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Wine and Air Travel

It floors me the extent to which rule enforcers do not know the rules that they are supposed to be enforcing. A recent article in the Seattle Times talks about how visitors to wine country wanted to bring back wines with them to enjoy in their home, a very common thing to desire.

I will not bore you with a summary of the article itself, but I will offer the following commentary: the fact that both the agent for the TSA and the superior figure/manager for the TSA were totally unaware of the regulations that they were supposed to be enforcing not only causes real monetary losses for the consumer but the wine industry and the airlines themselves. If people hear horror stories about not being able to bring wine back from a visit to wine coutry 2 things happen:

1. Less people will be likely to go to wine country because they will assume that they cannot bring with them the souvenir and product that they are going to explore. This results in less people traveling which means that they airlines lose money.

2. Less people going to wine country represents an indirect loss of business for the wine industry in addition to the fact that people will assume they can only take 6 bottles with them (in reality there is no limit for wine (or spirited beverages under 24% alcohol content) but there is a weight limit that is determined by the AIRLINE not the TSA. This can be gotten around by simply paying more) and will thus only buy 6, and not 12 or 24. Another loss for the industry.

We must get away from our post-prohibition ways of protecting distributors and preventing free trade. It does nothing but hurt the consumer and the producer. I would also argue that it hurts the distributor as they lose the brand awareness generated through online sales and direct shipping. Free the Grapes!

Alcohol Shipping

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Wine Varietals and Wine Blends

The “Vinos y Bodegas 2008″ fair was this last weekend here in Buenos Aires and many a person turned out. One of the things that always amazes me about the vast majority of Argentine bodegas (wineries) is how few of them do any blending. All of them have a Malbec and most have Cabernet, Syrah, Chardonnay, Merlot and maybe some Bonarda, Torrontés, Pinot Noir, Tannat, Sauvignon Blanc, or other varietals, but they sell them only as that: varietals.

Certainly varietals make for great wines and also play to that genre categorization feature that people tend to like in their products (i.e. knowing what they are going to get), but it leaves out the possibility for more personalized “winemaker” wines. I love it when you get a wine like Don Juan where the winemaker explains to you how many iterations he went through in determining the 70/11/10/9 split of Malbec/Syrah/Bonarda/Merlot. This is what makes great wine.

I think that for starting out and for understanding each of the varietals and how typicity works, that single varietal wines are fine. More than fine. Many are great. I would have to say that blends often take the best aspects of many wines that a winery or winemaker does and brings them together to form a masterpiece.

wine drinking

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Reserve Malbec vs. Malbec

People see the words “Reserve” and “Grand Reserve” printed on wine labels all the time. Anuva also has many wines that are designated with these titles. But what does that really mean?

The only way to really compare a reserve wine to another wine is to compare the wines that one winery makes. For example, one should compare Cavagnaro Malbec to Cavagnaro Reserve Malbec when attempting to discern relative quality. The reason for this is that each winery uses the word reserve in its own way. This term, in fact, is completely overused in the wine industry, as many huge wineries will simply put the word reserve or “Vintner’s Reserve” on every single bottle of the lowest quality wine they produce. This is simply a marketing tactic and in this instance the word reserve means nothing.

Many wineries have now started using the term “grand reserve”, “icon wines” or “flagship wines”to denote their higher level productions because the word reserve by itself is so overused. Another term that has been used often is “cuvée” but this is more of a “special batch” or a particular vat that the winemaker has noticed is superior to the rest of his wine of that vintage. The key again, though, is to compare this to the “normal” wine that that winery produces. If no “normal” counterpart exists that costs less than the “reserve” or “cuvée” of a particular winery, be careful, it’s probably a marketing tactic only.

Originally, however, the term was used to denote wines of special quality that the winemaker would “reserve” for further aging or for a special occasion rather than put directly on the market. The most important part of making any wine is of course, the grapes. Reserve quality grapes must be of lower yield, higher density (in sugars, tannins, acid and polyphenols–i.e. the stuff that makes good wine) than their “introductory line”, “entrance line”, or “classic line” counterparts.

Higher quality grapes are harder to grow and must be managed more carefully. They also make wines that stand up to oak aging better, and thus are usually given more time in oak, new oak especially, since this will add complexity and other favorable characteristics. Many over-oaked wines that are deemed reserve or grand reserve by their makers,  are made with grapes of insufficient quality to stand up to oak and result in wines where one feels like one is chewing on wood instead of drinking a luscious, complex wine.

Another typical characteristic of true reserve wines is that after oak aging they will be left to age in the bottle for sometimes up to several years before being released to the market.

Clearly, the difficulty and rarity in growing/harvesting of higher quality grapes and the costs involved in barreling and aging drive the price of reserve wines up. But remember, price has nothing to do with quality directly. I have tried many a famous wine that costs well above 100 dollars retail that has not only disappointed me, but come in behind wines that cost 1/3 of the price in blind tastings.

Needless to say that the king of determining wine quality, ultimately, is you and you alone. Ignoring what the label says and doing blind tastings is the only true way to determine your preferences. So compare the classics to the reserves to the grand reserves to the cuvées  and see what you find.

Choosing wine
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Making Malbec More Marketable: Is It Possible?

The 4th annual International Wine Forum in Mendoza, Argentina saw many industry leaders and experts gather to discuss the future of Malbec, wine and Argentina. Among the topics discussed was the direction of the signature Argentine wine industry, Malbec.

Exports are way up in terms of both volume and dollar value, and everyday we are reading more about and hearing more about the fabulous wines coming out of Argentina. So how could it be possible to make Malbec more marketable? Several ways:

1. Branding efforts. Big wineries are developing the brands of wine that they don’t classically deal in. Now, Anuva doesn’t deal with big wineries at all, but we are a tiny piece of the wine industry in Argentina, and we do have to pay attention to the things that Trapiche, Zuccardi and Catena are doing. The first two, known as makers of table wine primarily, are putting huge amounts of dollars and effort behind creating higher end Malbecs. Zuccardi now has Q and Z and both wineries are coming out with single vineyard Malbecs. Catena, traditionally a higher end producer, is concentrating tons of effort on its Alamos brand and Salentein with its Callia brand (due out in the U.S. before the end of the year).

2. Flexible styles. Malbec from Argentina can be made into a soft, fruit forward wine and also a concentrated oak aged powerhouse. This means that within the same varietal, many variations can be found that would please people with different tastes.

3. Unbeatable price/quality relationship. Argentina has the lowest labor and lowest land costs out of any major wine making region in the world. That means that all the quality gets to the consumer at less cost.

Here is what the American Association of Wine Economists have said about Malbec and Argentina (taken from this link):

“The Association’s working paper showed that “a driving force of Argentina’s export boom has been the admirable quality of its wines, particularly the attraction of its emblematic Malbec. But given that its uniqueness is a key element of Malbec’s appeal, is the wine’s lure ultimately a temporary fad? Will consumers tire of Malbec in time? Should the Argentine industry continue to stake its fortunes largely on this one successful varietal, or should it seek to promote new wines on the international market?”

Stein answers these questions by highlighting the opinion of experts, most of whom “voice optimism about the long-term prospects of Malbec. Among its enthusiasts are some of the wine world’s most influential critics and consultants. Remember that Robert Parker hardly evoked the image of a passing fancy when he asserted that during the next decade Malbec would take its place among ‘the pantheon of noble wines.’ Parker’s Argentine representative Jay Miller expressed similar views on his recent visits to Argentina: ‘To conquer the market, Argentina should continue promoting Malbec….Malbec is what distinguishes Argentina within the multitude….Malbec is real, it is not something that will go out of style….Malbec has great room to grow, because from its entry-price wines on up you find very good options.’ Renowned French consultant Michel Rolland is even more categorical in his support: ‘There is no reason for Argentina to change varietal. It is functioning so well with Malbec that I see no reason to try something else.’”

Argentine Wine

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