San Juan, Neuqúen, and Rio Negro: The Other Argentine Wine Regions


When discussing Argentine wine regions the topic tends to focus on Mendoza, its silky Malbec and Nicolas Catena’s influence (http://www.bibendum-wine.co.uk/retail/news/February/2009/Catena_Decanter) on the quality of the wine produced in Argentina.  Possibly someone will mention Salta’s floral and fruity Torrontes (even though the Torrontes grapes, though grown in Salta, are commonly shipped over night to Mendoza for processing), but other than that the average consumers does not talk about the other regions in Argentina.  This is not without reason:  Mendoza represents more than 60% of Argentine wine production, it represents a much higher percentage of exported wines, and Torrontes and Malbec are grown with unique characteristics in Argentina and have found a niche in foreign markets. 

The next highest wine producing region of Argentina is San Juan, located directly north of Mendoza.  This area is in the rain shadow of the Andes Mountains, resulting in an arid climate watered by snow melt and run off, just like Mendoza.  However the climate here is slightly warmer, and the grape of choice for high quality wine shifted from Bordeaux’s Malbec to the Rhone’s Syrah.  This is not to say you won’t find Malbec from San Juan, it is still grown there but it is not the ideal terroir as is offered in the south.  Wine purchased here will be less expensive (for now) than Mendoza’s wines, and while Malbec might not be as good, this does not mean there are not great wines to be had.  Medoc’s Petit Verdot also seems to have found a home.  This is a French grape used in Bordeaux blends, but has the down fall of being late ripening to the point of commonly losing the entire crop and only occasionally being ripened properly.  The fact that the Syrah market is already saturated  domestically in the US and Europe has limited the export market of San Juan’s signature grape, but does not make the wine produced there any less potable or any less the value of Mendoza.  In fact in Buenos Aires premier wine event, “Cuisine and Vin” there were two rooms dedicated to San Juan. 

To the south is Patagonia (encompassing Neuqúen and Rio Negro), which stirs ideas of glaciers, mountains and even penguins, but to an oenophile it should be known as the bastion of hope for Argentine production of quality Pinot Noir (though Mendoza has been producing good Pinot Noir by using high  altitude of the vineyards).  The area is only in its infancy, with only a handful of wineries, but this has not kept it from receiving some promising press (http://www.winesur.com/ver_nota.php?nota=17803).  With Oregon’s Willamette Valley, New Zealand’s Central Otago and of course Burgundy, representing the few places producing quality Pinot Noirs, Patagonia is Argentina’s opportunity  to break into a market which is fiercely loyal, low in supply and willing to pay a lot of money for a quality product.  The relative small number of wineries in the region will leave you coming across the same names over and over, two of which are Bodega Chacra, and Familia Schroeder.  Bodega Chacra represents the most respected name in the region, with old vines and the reviews to match. (http://www.londonfinewine.co.uk/blog/default/2009/06/09/1244561705947.html) Familia Schroeder is the producer of “Saurus” and will be the most easily found example of a decent Patagonian Pinot Noir in or outside of Argentina.