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As much as I think a free market philosophy should dominate world trade, boundaries are important. I am worried about today’s news regarding the EU possibly allowing rosé to be made from blending red and white wines, and the French, especially in Provence, are up in arms.

I am not the biggest fan of rosé, nor do I really care that much about how it is made. But in defence of the artistry and integrity of the product and the people who make it, the mix of white and red wine to produce rosé should at least be controlled through labeling. If not, the 93% syrah-7% viognier blend from Las Perdices that I love so much could be called a rosé, and it is anything but.

The practice of mixing together reds and whites is fine, but they should be called red/white blends or rosé blends since their method of production differs so drastically from the production of a true rosé.

In addition, allowing for the white/red blend to enter the market as a rosé, would most certainly dilute the quality of the world rosé market, as I imagine that the majority of wineries that had leftover tanks of white and red, would simply mix some of it together, slap a new label on it, and call it rosé. Far from the idea of planning to make a great rosé or a great wine in general.

Allowing winemakers to enter the market in this fashion certainly does detriment to the winemakers and wineries that hold the integrity of their product above all else. There is certainly nothing wrong with allowing white/red blends to enter the market, but they should not be allowed to compete with “traditional rosé”.

I would venture to argue that the traditional rosé makers be allowed a very specific, controlled label for their product while any white/red blend only be allowed to say expressely that: that it is a blend of two wines made to be separate, distinct and to stand on their own.

Perhaps if a winemaker wanted to specifically create a white wine and a red wine for the creation of a rosé, that could have a separate label as well. But that idea might be a bit complicated for both producers and consumers.

My first question when I approach a winery to sample their wine for potential purchase is “Do you have a blend?” The tendency to make 100% varietals is all too common especially in the new world. It can actually be quite amusing to see some of these wineries lists of wines they make–extensive, well marketed, different price points–to find that they do not have a single blend or sometimes even bi-varietal.

Take this classic example: a winery will have their varietal chardonnay, viognier, pinot grigio, sauvignon blanc, pinot noir, syrah, malbec, merlot and cabernet. Not only that but they will have what they do best–say syrah, cabernet and malbec–in reserve and grand reserve levels as well. Theoretically this means higher quality grapes were used but usually just means that more oak was used.  It seems obvious to me that a blend would be a natural, normal, logical progression of such an incredible number of varietals under one roof.

But alas, many wineries have fallen prey to marketing and lack of interest….

It seems to me that the biggest reason that wineries focus on varietals is because of sales and marketing. It is easier for consumers to understand what a merlot is as opposed to a Don Juan or a Cuatro Primos. That would involve turning around the bottle and reading the label to find out what is in it, if the varietals used are even listed. Not only that but it would involve a decision making process where, instead of comparing one varietal wine to the same varietal–ostensibly a direct comparison–one has to compare the types of wine involved as well. All of a sudden the decision making process just got a lot harder. Wineries at times worry about confusing the consumer and therefore stay away from blending.

But what worries me is that blends are simply gorgeous and are what truly represent a winemaker’s talent. It takes a deep knowledge of the characteristics of one’s wine to create a better blended wine than the varietals with which one started. Not to mentions countless hours of experimentation.

So hats off to the winemakers who have faith that the final consumer will want to take that leap and try that complex blend that keeps on giving.

A little Argentine wine 101 for everyone who needs it. And even if you don’t, this may provide some good cocktail party sound bites!

It is important to know that wine is not only an agricultural product, but a living thing. Wine changes. In the barrel, in the bottle, in the glass, and even in your mouth, wine will take on new characteristics according to its environment. Wine tasting is extremely subjective. I have met too many winemakers, wine club owners, and wine enthusiasts who tried to convince me that their wine was the best (“Un Vinasso”—a fantastic wine.) When dealing with wine, we can only have preferences. What we at Anuva Vinos claim, therefore, is that our wine represents a particular style and culture. The Argentine style and culture. Easy to drink, fruit forward, and elegant.

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